Saturday, December 25, 2010
xmas breakfast: baked egg cups
Friday, December 24, 2010
Thursday, December 23, 2010
Monster CSA Post I
Farfalle with turnip greens and prosciutto | Sausage and lentil stuffed acorn squash |
Lemon boy choy, tofu, snow pea stir fry | Beet and goat cheese ravioli |
Carrot soufflé | Acorn squash pie |
We mostly tried to keep things simple, because of the amount of prep that fresh farm vegetables need. Not that it is so onerous, especially because we aren't in classes now, but we like to keep cooking a joy and not a chore. Make agains: farfalle (love the hint of bitterness in the tender turnip greens), carrot souffle (CSA carrots are heavenly), and acorn squash pie (so sweet, it barely needed sugar). Tweaks: wonton wrappers are not an acceptable wrapper for ravioli, it is decided, but the simple filling of pureed roasted beets with goat cheese is divine. Bok choy was fine but unexciting. Stuffed acorn squash - fail. Maybe this was a not sweet or just huge acorn squash, but despite an hour in the oven it was undercooked and tasteless. The acorn squash we used for the pie was so amazing it really barely needed sugar to be dessert. We are squash novices so we'll have to keep testing cooking methods for it. This isn't even half of what we've been cooking up, so many more monster CSA posts will follow....
Sunday, December 19, 2010
Obsessed with Microwave mochi
Hello, lover |
Mochi has been a favorite treat since childhood. But I had never even considered as make-able at home, as I assumed you needed an (expensive) mochi machine, not really available in the US, to make the dough. However, whist wandering around on the interwebs as per usual, I discovered that people have been making mochi with, wait for it, their MICROWAVES. I had to try it.
It's amazing. Really. Now I am obsessed. Above you see my matcha green tea mochi filled with adzuki red bean paste.
Here's my version of the recipe/protocol, with slightly different proportions and more tacit knowledge made explicit from this blogger's original:
1 Cup of Mochiko sweet rice flour
2 tsp Matcha powder
2 TBSP sugar
3/4 Cup of water
1 Can of adzuki bean paste
Cornstarch for dusting
Before starting anything, put the adzuki bean paste into a tupperware container and refrigerate. When ready to make mochi, put some cornstarch onto a plate, which you will use to prep the mochi. Have two spoons and a measuring cup with a flat bottom handy. Put Mochiko, Matcha, sugar, and water into a microwaveable bowl and mix to form a paste. Microwave the paste for 2 minutes, take out, stir a little, and then microwave for 2 minutes more. Remove the hot bowl from the microwave, and let the mochi dough sit until you can touch it (it is wicked hot, but I am impatient and have a high tolerance for touching hot things so I start right away). Dust your fingers with cornstarch to deal with the mochi dough. Use a spoon (dipped in cornstarch) to take a heaping spoon of the dough, plop it on the cornstarch covered plate, dip the bottom of the measuring cup with mochi flour, and pound the dough into a flat circle. Spoon the bean paste into the circle and then pinch it closed, shaping it into an oval. Brush all sides with a light dusting of the cornstarch. Repeat until you have used up all the dough. You will have lots of paste left so feel free to make more dough. Each cup of Mochiko makes about 6-8 mochis. Happy cooking, but please do not hold me responsible if you burn your fingers with hot sticky sweet rice flour paste.
Thursday, December 16, 2010
Bad blogger, good finder...
Wednesday, September 15, 2010
Two secrets (not my own) that I don't want to forget
2. When you want to "puree" garlic while you are chopping on your cutting board, add some salt so that the grains help to mash the garlic.
Thursday, September 2, 2010
Nitakiya Kinsai, omakase heaven
But onto the food. Friends, everything was as delicious as it looked. Because I don't speak Japanese (though I definitely want to learn), I can't tell you as much as I'd like to about the food, but I will tell you how much I enjoyed it!
We put ourselves in the Kinsai chefs' hands, and requested an omakase dinner. This meant that each lovely course would be a surprise, and would no doubt consist of fresh, seasonal, and creative dishes.
So delicious. |
Course one started off with a light, lemony broth, garnished with roasted sesame seeds and finely sliced chive-like herbs.
I would eat this everyday. |
Course two was a kind of tofu unlike any other I have ever had. It was soft and smooth, and had a sesame flavor reminiscent of tahini. It sat beautifully on a shiso leaf, and was accompanied with freshly grated wasabi and delicious rock salt. Perfect.
Almost too beautiful to eat |
Course three - my first sushi (well, to be specific, sashimi) in Japan experience. And it didn't disappoint. There might not be an English word for the fish on the left, but delicious will have to suffice. In the middle was a sustainable skipjack tuna, and on the right, two silvery shiny slices of delectable mackerel. I am a surprisingly conservative raw fish eater, and normally avoid mackerel because I find it, well, too fishy! This was amazing, because it was so fresh. Fresh fish is just a different animal.
You know you want to dip your spoon in... |
Nicer than a Christmas present |
This wonderfully fragrant package was filled with grill-steamed mushrooms, including shitake, matsutake, and enoki mushrooms. The matsutakes were especially out of this world, and perfectly garnished with lime juice and sea salt. Five courses, and still more to go!
MMMMMMM. |
This dish was a wonderful contrast in flavors and textures. The ball looking thing was made from chopped shrimp and coated in finer-than-angel-hair fried pasta. It was accompanied by a pepper, eggplant, and smooth pile of shaved daikon, and sat in a lovely mild salty dashi broth garnished with some type of mild yet fresh herb. I could eat this one everyday too. By course six, I was getting really full.
No more words. |
And what do you eat when you are starting get full? Meat, of course. Though I had eaten very little meat all summer, it wasn't hard to get right back into it with all of the delicious pork in practically every dish in Japan. However, this was amongst the best, again accompanied by sea salt, some type of sweet miso, and a very hot pepper paste in addition to juicy grilled vegetables. Course seven, even more full.
See the pumpkin hiding in the back? |
Course eight was probably my least favorite, but it was still really delicious. Another ball in broth, this time a chicken meatball with taro, Japanese pumpkin, and summer squash. I really enjoyed the pumpkin though, and I wish that I could buy this in Ithaca. We'll have to try to find it on our next pilgrimage to Mitsuwa Marketplace in Edgewater, NJ.
Like a painting, isn't it? |
Somehow I managed to make room for the last meal course, two beautiful pieces of sushi. Not sure what the one on the right was, but the one on the left was a delicate, delicious piece of anago (sea eel).
There's always room for dessert! |
Though you are full, there is always, always room for dessert, isn't there? By what magic does your stomach mysteriously make room? A lovely bean gelatin with matcha ice cream and a dark syrupy soy based glaze, with nutty soy powder to top it. A beautiful light finish to a robust yet delicate meal. I will remember it forever.
Monday, August 23, 2010
Ramen tears
You may be asking, why is it black?!? According to this blogger, the black stuff is called ma-yu, an oil flavored with burnt garlic. Wow, was it intense. The soup was surprisingly mild though, so when the ma-yu was distributed through the bowl it was amazing. The broth was so delicious it literally brought tears to my eyes.
Then I bit into the noodles, which were also quite delicious, and more along the lines of what I had been expecting... thinner than at Setagaya and a slightly yellower color. See for yourself --->
The pork, which you can see a bit in this picture and better above, was fine. It didn't hold a candle to the pork from Setagaya, but the broth was so amazing that I'd have to say that this bowl trumped the other one.
In addition, I enjoyed the atmosphere at Nantsuttei a bit more. I could hear lots of hustle and bustle in the background, of the female server communicating with the 3 ramen chefs, and the decor felt cozy and warm.
This was a sign that was posted in front of my seat, I just thought it was cute.
Sunday, August 22, 2010
Whatever I just ate, it was delicious...
Being so busy this summer and having pretty much no time in between my Berkeley program and my Japan trip meant that I couldn't spend as much time as I would have liked to planning the Japan trip. Normally I would obsess over where I wanted to go when and what I wanted to eat, but I didn't have time to do that. Which means, be open to whatever I find wherever I find it, and keep my expectations in check.
However, that doesn't mean that a bit of research isn't in order. I am staying at Shinagawa, and it turns out that my hotel is literally across the street from Shinatatsu Ramen Row, with 7 famous ramen shops lined up quite conveniently, all waiting for me to try!
Thanks to this very useful blog post, I was able to identify where and what I ate, after the fact. I'll keep you in the dark a bit longer though, to recapture my experience better!
I first wander around the Shinagawa station, and walk in the opposite direction of ramen row. I had a sense that I was going the wrong way, but I wanted to orient myself to the area anyway and saw a few interesting looking Japanese fast-food type places. I walked less than a block though, before realizing that it was just too darn hot to walk around without a destination in mind. Also, I was really hungry.
So I turned around and walked toward ramen row, and found it quite easily. I spent a little time taking in the different signs, but felt quite overwhelmed. So, I decided to rely on one of the more useful tricks of the trade when you don't know where to eat... social proof. Which place looked the most busy? Then I saw this:
Of course, I knew that this is where I must go. Plus, there were about 8 people in line in front of this vending machine, mostly salarymen and women in business wear on their lunch breaks. They would know where to go!
What to get, what to get? How to use the machine? My heart was racing but my stomach said 'go for it.'
I knew I wanted ramen, and the red on this button caught my eye:
I didn't know what it was but it looked good. I could see onions and roasted pork, so I was sold. I pushed the button, got my little ticket, and stepped inside. It was quite busy but very efficient, so I didn't have to wait long. A server greeted me in Japanese, and I quickly said, "aigo ga wakatimas ga?" "Do you understand English?" -- she indicated only a little, took my ticket, and told me, "wait." I did.
A few minutes later, when some parties left, she led me to a seat and I waited some more. I looked around at what everyone else was having, and it looked like the guy next to me ordered the same thing. Good, I thought.
Then my bowl came:
Wow, it looks just like the picture on the vending machine! Amazing, that.
I dipped my spoon in, and wow. The broth was not what I was expecting. It was thick, not really like a broth, but like gravy. It was quite salty, but not as salty as my favorite broth, shio. It had a slightly seaweedy flavor, not actually strongly porky. Hm, I thought. This is just okay.
Then I tried a bite of the noodles. You can't really tell from this picture, but they were a lot thicker than what I was expecting, almost flat. And, thank goodness, the noodles were amazing. Really amazing. They had a perfect chewy texture. Then I tried the thick root looking thing, which I think was bamboo. The onions added a nice hearty flavor. Then another moment of truth... I bit into the pork. WOW. The flavor was ridiculous. Really, really, really, really good. Sometimes I flirt with vegetarianism but it's meat like this that makes that a pipe dream. This is what pork was meant to taste like. It must be roasted in some way to get the incredible caramelized rich flavor, but I don't think I could ever replicate it. Ridiculously good.
So what was it? If you clicked on the other blog post (Go Ramen) you already know, but in case you didn't, it's called Kumo Ramen, according to Go Ramen Kumo means cloud. I ate at Setagaya, with Chef Maijima Tsukasa at the helm. Here's a sign in case you want to find it yourself!
Friday, August 20, 2010
Bad eggs...
So what can I add to the plurality of voices here? It is important to think about all of the above factors, and even more that I haven't mentioned, but I believe that more attention should be paid to two things: 1) clearer evidence chains that emphasize who is producing evidence and how this evidence is produced should be made publicly available. 2) if we indeed have "bad egg" companies that endanger the whole food system, what kinds of structural factors produce these "bad eggs" (ahem ahem ahem contract farming)? A simple focus on greed and moral failing does not address deeper issues regarding the conditions that produce "bad eggs."
Tuesday, August 10, 2010
Why is my zucchini bitter?
To be clear, these farmer's market beauties were decidedly NOT bitter. However, while dining in one of my favorite cafés and procrastinating from my piles of work, I was munching on a lovely panini with foccacia, pesto, grilled onions, and sauteed portobello mushrooms and zucchini. Sounds delicious, right? It was, except for the horribly bitter zucchini. I decided to actually find out what exactly makes the zucchini bitter and answer this pressing question for all of you. While folk theories about what causes this bitterness abound, it turns out that bitter zucchini is caused by the presence of what are called cucurbitacins, or, more specifically, oxygenated tetracyclic triterpenes. These phytochemicals, according to Fenwick et. al (1990), start to have toxic effects at doses of 3 g. Wow, um, that's not very much. Cucumbers are another common veg that often has this problem. So the next time you bite into a bitter zucchini, don't force yourself to eat it. It's not the way you cooked it, it's not because it's too old. Toss this one, and your next one will probably be fine.
Fenwick GR, Curl CL, Griffiths NM, Heaney RK, Price KR. Bitter principles in food plants. In: Rouseff RL, ed. Bitterness in foods and beverages; developments in food science 25. Amsterdam: Elsevier, 1990:205–50.
Thursday, August 5, 2010
Ode to Heirloom Tomatoes
Heirloom tomato,
How I love thee.
Let me count the ways.
You are summer embodied,
With your fleshy acidic sweetness,
and colors!
Red Yellow Green Purple Orange.
And shapes!
Sphere Pumpkin Face Grape Alien.
I enjoy thee simply,
with salt only,
and remember that though our love is fleeting,
I will taste you once again each summer.
Saturday, July 17, 2010
Gather... dare I say it, more enticing than Chez Panisse?
Compelling argument, no? I guess I don't have hard data to back up my argument, but we walked around the Gourmet Ghetto with friends today and stopped to look at Chez Panisse's menu. It was ridiculously expensive, especially compared to Gather, and while the food looked enticing, Gather had a similar locally-oriented, farm-to-table ambiance with a much more reasonable cost. This pork belly sandwich with arugula was great, although I missed the normal accompaniment of cabbage (today it was replaced with onions and peppers). The arugula side salad was perfect with the salty hearty sandwich, though. So well composed.
Noyeaux? Oh, yes!
What is Noyeaux, you ask? Don't worry, I had to ask too... it is the kernel of the apricot pit, which has a nutty almond like flavor. This orange flavored ice cream had bits of noyeaux and crunchy burnt sugar (hence, the name créme brulée). While the Earl Grey flavor still eludes me, apparently if you call Ici and press 2 you can hear their daily menu. Or I could just keep playing the ice cream lottery and have lots of fun trying.
Saturday, July 10, 2010
Panchan party...
Does the bright purple color of the cabbage come through in the photo? It tasted even better than it looks. Right underneath was the silkiest 알찜 (aljim) ever, a custard-like egg concoction with the most amazing texture. Another favorite was included in the panchan, the first item in the middle row -- 무킴치 (moo kimchi), a fiery hot pickled and slightly fermented radish. Sura was the first Korean restaurant I have ever been to that did not oversalt the food. Everything was light, fresh, healthy tasting, and delicious, although my potato soup had a flavor I am unaccustomed to: perilla leaves, which I like by themselves in soy sauce, but was not as crazy about in a soup.
I had a fascinating conversation with a friend today regarding (the resistance to) vegetarianism in Korea. Sura could be a place in which you would be able to get the closest; while many other Asian cuisines have been more readily translated to accommodate vegetarians (and even vegans, re: Burma Superstar), Korean food remains particularly resistant. Seafood and beef in particular are national sources of pride in Korea, and to not eat them may seem almost, well, un-Korean? For all I know there is a burgeoning vegetarian movement in the bustling city of Seoul, but in America, the Korean restaurants have had a continued focus on bulgogi and kalbi as the stars of the cuisine's show, and fish or shrimp in various forms manage to sneak their way into almost every little panchan dish. Sura seemed to offer a few vegetarian options, more than I have seen at other Korean places, but it is a far cry from the variety you can get at say, Burma Superstar or a million Thai restaurants.
Is it because Burmese or Thai food are more adaptable inherently? I don't actually think so. I think that you could create amazing Korean vegetarian food, especially with the use of interesting vegetables and frequent pickling. I haven't jumped on the vegetarian boat yet though I try to ration my meat consumption for sustainability reasons, but I feel about vegetarianism the way I feel about shopping... it's more fun when you can go shopping with your friends, regardless of what size each of you are, and feels awful when you can't spend time in the same store or department because your size isn't offered. Similarly, it feels pretty crappy when your friends don't have vegetarian options on the menu to choose from. As yummy as tofu can be, that shouldn't be the only vegetarian option available.
Wednesday, July 7, 2010
Bring on the unusual...
What I do have pictures of are some of the more unusual things I've tried lately. S & I went to the Berkeley Farmers' Market and saw these:
Fresh chickpeas! Neat, huh! They are fascinating looking, individually wrapped by nature, each delicate pod housing one green, sweet, nutty chickpea. They tasted a bit like peas, actually, and would be wonderful in a salad; although, as my in-laws have taught me to say, this would entail a lot of patschke-ing around. And since my summer kitchen facilities are less than optimal and my available time to cook short, I resisted purchasing them.
Another unusual item I tried (actually for the second time) is 팓빙수, patbingsu.
Yes it was as big as it looks in the photo. This is what you call a delicious abomination. It shouldn't be good but it is: shaved ice milk slathered in artificial strawberry syrup, topped with kiwis, strawberries, canned pineapple, banana small bits of mochi, chocolate syrup, vanilla syrup, sweet red beans, and ice cream. There's a cute Korean sandwich shop/cafe near my building that also sells patbingsu. It wasn't as good as the first one I tried in the South Bay, but it was pretty good and lots of fun to eat a mishmash of tastes that shouldn't go together, but do.
Friday, June 25, 2010
Can I set a world record for Ici visits?
Thursday, June 24, 2010
Holy land right in my backyard
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
Schmaltz!
At first, I was disgusted at the amount of fat and skin I'd trimmed off (see 1st picture). But then I was inspired: schmaltz!
Schmaltz is rendered chicken fat. It's a main ingredient in chopped liver and is a good general cooking fat if you keep kosher -- you can't use lard because it's pork, and can't use butter because it's dairy. Apparently it's also tasty spread on dark rye with a little salt.
For my first try, this couldn't have gone any better. Once the gribenes cooled a few minutes, I ate them with just a little salt. Not something I'd snack on every day, but amazingly good. And, surprisingly, not that greasy. All the fat attached to the skin had melted off, and so I suppose not that much remained.
The schmaltz is cooling. After that, it'll go into the freezer. It's pure fat, so it should keep a long time, at least until I can figure out what I want to do with it.
Sunday, June 20, 2010
Burma Superstar is even better in Oakland
At the newer location in Oakland, there is so much more seating! No 3 hour lines here. The food was just as good, and they have so many options that can be made vegan. Some vegan/vegetarian friends were in town and so Burma Superstar was an optimal choice. We had the yellow bean fried tofu, which you see here, tea leaf salad (minus shrimp), rainbow salad, yummy coconut rice, and vegetarian noodles. I do really miss the Bay Area for a few reasons, and Burma Superstar is one of them!
Friday, June 18, 2010
Ici is dangerous...
Thursday, June 17, 2010
Scoping out Berkeley cafes: The Beanery
I am feeling a little house bound and need some new places to study. Today I am trying out The Beanery in Elmwood, and am really enjoying the ambiance! Classical music in the background, comfy seating, and a lot of sunlight make this very pleasant. I have heard the coffee isn't the best, but my veggie sandwich is super cute, isn't it?
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
Sous Vide Eggs Semi Fail
Here is my tale of woe.
There's a lot of good stuff to read about eggs and sous vide. Serious Eats provides a detailed description of how eggs respond to temperature, as does this guy, who does it specifically in the context of sous vide, and this site, which gives a nice breakdown of the proteins, etc. Finally, this post received a comment about a finishing technique that I try to replicate here.
So I read all this stuff, and I thought I was good to go. As I did in my comparatively successful rib smoking adventure, I reasoned that if I could get the science right, then the hardware didn't matter, and the thermos container could work nicely.
I decided at the outset that I'd cook two eggs to 145 degrees for 45 minutes. That's enough time for the temperature gradient to even out, and for semisolid whites and yolks. In fact, this guy points out that others have described the 145-degree egg as the perfect sous vide egg.
Ok, here we go.
This pot is 3.5 quarts. I used the candy thermometer to know precisely when the water is at 145 degrees. I let it go a hair's width over 145. |
Ok the water's poured in and the timer's set for 45 minutes. How do I pass the time? |
This is the result of egg #1. It isn't the perfect sous vide egg. It's what the professionals call "raw." Bummer. |
Post game analysis:
There are lots of places I could have gone wrong. I suspect i didn't use enough water at the beginning. I think I'd try it again with at least three times as much. Also, maybe the cooler leaked more heat than I thought, and that it's just not up to the task.