Sunday, May 30, 2010

Recent grilling adventures


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S & I have had some grilling adventures thus far in the summer.  Above you can see an early experiment with our new grill with awesome cast iron grates (he gives some more specs on it below), with Ludo's spiedie marinated pork chops and zucchini halves with olive oil and sea salt.  Check out the grill marks!

Here's a guest post from S on his rib smoking experiment:

Some purists believe that the only way to smoke ribs is on a charcoal smoker, and laugh or sneer at those of us who attempt barbecue on a gas grill.  But we imagined that, as long as you get the basics right -- slow and low, with moisture and smoldering wood -- you should be able to get a good smoke regardless of the hardware. We were right.
We got a 3.4 lb rack of center cut spare ribs and rubbed it with a dry rub called "Aloha rub" that I brought home when I was in Hawaii last year.  You don't have to let a dry rub sit on ribs for too long; we left it in the fridge for about 20 minutes while prepping the grill.

For barbecue, you want indirect heat.  In a charcoal smoker, you'd put the meat on one side, and all the coals on the other.  In a gas grill, ideally you'd be able to turn on the burners on one side only.   We have the Weber Q 300, which has two burners, a large rectangular burner around the perimeter of the grill and a smaller burner that runs across the middle (see diagram).  This means that there's no hotter/cooler sides, only more/less heat overall.  We started with the large burner on its lowest possible setting, but this gave a consistent 300F. Way too hot.  Switching to the smaller burner gave a remarkably consistent 240F, after a little futzing with the dial. Perfect.

But that burner provides direct heat, and barbecue requires indirect.  This can be accomplished with a double-layer of aluminum foil on top of the grill grate.  On top of this went a wire rack (which provided about 1/2" of elevation), and on top of that went the rack of ribs.

Besides low, indirect heat, the other "ingredients" of barbecue are moisture and smoke.  We forgot to take pictures of them at the time, but you'll see in the diagram where a small pan sat -- just an extra foil drip pan from the grill -- full of beer right on top of the grates (green), and a smoke bomb with applewood (purple) beneath them. The liquid acts as a heat sink and provides some moisture, and the smoldering of the wood provides the smoke, of course.

The final ingredient is time.  These ribs smoked for 3.5 hours.  30 minutes before removing them, we painted the meaty side with a thick barbecue sauce.  You don't want to do this too early, or else the sugars in the sauce could burn, and that would be unpleasant.  30 minutes is enough time for the sauce to heat up and get a little sticky.


Is it possible to tell from the pictures how good the results were?  The picture of the two cut ribs shows that it's indeed possible to get a pretty nice pink smoke ring even on a gas grill. And, I might add, even if you're a city boy from the North.

One last grilling adventure on this monster long post... this is a gorgeous picture of grilled corvina, also known as white sea bass.  It is frequently used as a ceviche fish but a fish guy at Wegman's suggested that we grill it.  It's a mild fish but has substantial texture.  Here it is prepared simply, with olive oil, salt, pepper, and lemon, accompanied by similarly dressed grilled asparagus spears.


Fish is a difficult food item to manage for me.  I don't like anything too "fishy," and unfortunately living inland in Ithaca means that most things are going to be "fishy" because they aren't fresh enough.  I did enjoy this corvina quite a bit but forgot to consult the sustainable fish guide from the Monterey Bay Aquarium about it... they list it as one to avoid.  Sigh.  Eating fish is a perfect illustration of the contradictions that face modern eaters who try to be conscientious... while fish is healthy and can be delicious, the polluted state of the oceans raise questions about toxicity.  Overfishing is a huge problem, but fish farming is not necessarily the answer, because there are also questions about the toxicity of those fish as well (sometimes, as in the case of salmon, even more potentially toxic).  Not to mention prices... should we really just try to buy our way to safety?

Putting these huge questions aside for a bit, the question I'm going to take up on this blog, which celebrates eating, is, what fish should I be buying and eating?  I can't answer that now, but I will try to keep Mark Bittman's rules in mind (check out his awesome, thoughtful piece in the NYTimes about eating fish).  Given how the Maine lobster industry has recovered, I can definitely celebrate eating lobsters!!!  We'll have to try a lobster grilling experiment sometime in the future.

Kaya toast

I've been watching Top Chef Masters this season, and am enthralled by Susan Festiger's Kaya toast.  I can't wait to make this, but am going to have to, unfortunately, for at least a couple of weeks until I settle back into the Bay Area and can get all of the unique ingredients.  (Actually, the only ingredient that I think I couldn't find in Ithaca is pandan leaves, although that is what the internet is for!)

The coconut jam sounds amazing.  I think that instead of a soft boiled egg, as Susan has listed on the website, I will actually make either a poached egg or over-easy egg, the latter of which she made on the show.  I'm so curious to try it, and in general am very interested in going to Singapore someday to try Kaya toast (and other amazing delicacies) in person. 

Lost party


Sorry this is a week late, but with traveling and also trying out blogging via mobile, I have not been good about posting food adventures.  Anyway, this feast above was made for our Lost-themed party, to celebrate/mourn the ending of a great, great show, one of the best on television ever!  I wasn't so pleased with the finale, but thanks Lost for 6 good years of entertainment!  I'll talk about the food first and then leave you with some thoughts on the finale -- priorities, people.

Many others have created awesome Dharma templates for labels, so we grabbed a few and resized them to fit some of our ingredients -- the beer was already made for the most part, but S worked on the pineapple soda.  We also decided to make Mr. Cluck's chicken, in honor of Hurley being one of our favorite characters.  I tried a new recipe, based on a standard one you can find online for "oven fried chicken" (trying to be healthy, here), but brought my magic chicken know-how to it.  Here's the recipe:

3 lbs organic free range chicken (I like drums the best but you can mix the parts if you want)
6 TBSP cornstarch (this is approximate, don't worry about being exact)
3 C cornflakes, crushed in a ziploc bag
2 eggs, beaten
2 T kosher flake salt
2 t granulated garlic
2 t granulated onion
2 t Penzey's fox point (another day I will post about my love for Penzey's, I get all my spices there)
1 t smoked paprika

Preheat oven to 350.  Add salt, garlic, onion, fox point, and paprika to crushed cornflakes in bag, shake to disperse.  Set up workstation in following order: chicken, cornstarch on a plate, egg in wide shallow bowl, cornflake mix bag, baking sheet covered in a silpat.  Proceed to dip chicken into cornstarch, then egg, then cornflake mix, and place on baking sheet.  (Aside: I use cornstarch to help render the fat/make the skin crispy.  You could do skinless and skip the cornstarch to make it even healthier).  Put dipped chicken into oven, bake for 45 minutes. 

The chicken turned out extremely well, the cornflake mix was delicious.  It was kind of a pain to make but worth it -- just as good as fried chicken... well, not as delicious as Thomas Keller's fried chicken with rosemary and lemon, but still really good.  (I have the Ad Hoc cookbook and will try to make TK's chicken someday this year, I promise!)

We tried to make coconut rum ice cream, but the alcohol and hot day made the ice cream experiment fail.  So, we made pina coladas with the mixture instead!  Nom!

Ok, now that the food is covered, I will post some of my thoughts on Lost.  While the finale was entertaining and emotionally satisfying because of the incredible characters on the show, as someone who is not particularly spiritual, the ending went in a direction that was ultimately intellectually unsatisfying.  One could argue that because the ending was an amalgam of the Aeneid and Rushdie's Haroun and the Sea of Stories that it was literary, but they went beyond metaphysics to mystics, IMHO.  The confusing and minor role that the Others played in all of Season 6 was only one instance of a larger problem with the whole last bit of the series -- the earlier mysteries that so consumed us were not addressed, creating an odd dynamic in which each new twist and turn relating to Sideways world and the introduction of new characters acted as distractions, rather than weaving together the tapestry of the show's multiple storylines into a coherent whole.  If Darlton could have done this, the finale could have been the greatest finale in the history of television.  There is a reason that JK Rowling's work on Harry Potter is so beloved; she ends her books with a huge aha payoff for her readers, in which the multiple storylines do come together, kind of like that moment when you, after staring at a 3D optical illusion, suddenly see what you are supposed to see.

Regardless of how it ended, I was happy to be able to celebrate and take part in a national media event, complete with themed food.  I can't think of another television series that is likely to cause me to want to participate in this way, but hopefully something will come down the pike eventually.  Until next time, namaste!

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Wednesday, May 19, 2010

New additions to the Omnivore's hundred and future goals...

I promised an explanation of the new additions to the Omnivore's hundred list... I've had these before but just forgot that I had them:
Carob chips
I'm sure I have had them but probably tried to forget that I ate them!
Prickly pear
I know I've had this, probably in a salad in a fancy restaurant, but it was not memorable. I'm guessing it was like jicama?
Hostess Fruit Pie
I think I remembered but did not want to admit it the first time! Actually, this brings up memories of going to a bakery outlet when I was a child, and being allowed to eat a Hostess Fruit Pie only once or twice a year (surreptitiously in the parking lot, as we were all definitely aware that it was crap for you. No way was that crap going home! There was something oddly appealing about the thick, fried, icing drenched crust, and the sugary, syrupy filling that pushed the boundaries of what you'd call fruit... I would never eat one again, but see this as a fun food memory.)


New food experiences:
Goat’s milk
Perhaps this is a technicality, but I will count it anyway, as I have definitely had goat's milk cheese, and most recently, a lovely goat's milk feta from Lively Run Goat Dairy, which S and I had the pleasure of visiting with friends last fall.
Umeboshi
This salty delight was sitting on top of my shio ramen at Santouka Ramen in Edgewater, NJ, my holy grail bowl, at least in the US (sorry Bay Area). I look forward to finding multiple bowls that surpass it when I go to Japan in the fall for a "professional" meeting (yeah, professional ramen eating :-)
Beer above 8% ABV
I've never been a real beer drinker, but I suppose that is what graduate school is for! Someone at beer o'clock keeps buying this... dear colleagues, I hope that you are all as smashed as I am on Fridays, because I don't ever remember what I say...

Food goals:
I didn't cross anything out on the other list because I really am willing to put all of those things in my mouth, dubious though I am about the wisdom of actually consuming a Scotch Bonnet pepper, especially after watching Adam Richman on Man v. Food burn his tastebuds right off of his tongue... However, there are some foods I'd put higher on the list than others. I will definitely eat sea urchin and abalone when I am in Japan, otherwise I'd be wasting great seafood opportunities. I've also been eyeing durian, actually for a couple of years. The right durian moment just hasn't yet presented itself. One has to make sure that the mood and the moment is just right, y'know? My most immediate goal, that I will try to seek out when S and I visit civilized society next week (DC), is criollo chocolate. I will post on that deliciousness when it happens.

Blog fail

Wow, how many blogs have I started and failed to maintain? This post is an attempt to try again, well a half-attempt really, because I am not promising anything. Who am I kidding?

I thought it might be fun to update the Omnivore's Hundred again, this time with things crossed out that I would never eat! Bold & italicized are the newest additions since the last post. The next post will explain some of the more interesting new additions.

I saw a list of 100 things that every omnivore should eat linked from Clothilde's blog, and thought I would see how many I have actually had, here goes...
1. Venison
2. Nettle tea
3. Huevos rancheros
4. Steak tartare

5. Crocodile
6. Black pudding
7. Cheese fondue

8. Carp
9. Borscht
10. Baba ghanoush
11. Calamari
12. Pho
13. PB&J sandwich
14. Aloo gobi
15. Hot dog from a street cart

16. Epoisses
17. Black truffle
18. Fruit wine made from something other than grapes
19. Steamed pork buns
20. Pistachio ice cream
21. Heirloom tomatoes
22. Fresh wild berries
23. Foie gras
24. Rice and beans

25. Brawn, or head cheese
26. Raw Scotch Bonnet pepper
27. Dulce de leche
28. Oysters
29. Baklava

30. Bagna cauda
31. Wasabi peas
32. Clam chowder in a sourdough bowl

33. Salted lassi
34. Sauerkraut
35. Root beer float

36. Cognac with a fat cigar
37. Clotted cream tea
38. Vodka jelly/Jell-O
39. Gumbo
40. Oxtail
41. Curried goat
42. Whole insects
43. Phaal
44. Goat’s milk
45. Malt whisky from a bottle worth £60/$120 or more
46. Fugu
47. Chicken tikka masala
48. Eel
49. Krispy Kreme original glazed doughnut

50. Sea urchin
51. Prickly pear
52. Umeboshi

53. Abalone
54. Paneer
55. McDonald’s Big Mac Meal

56. Spaetzle
57. Dirty gin martini
58. Beer above 8% ABV
59. Poutine
60. Carob chips
61. S’mores
62. Sweetbreads

63. Kaolin
64. Currywurst
65. Durian
66. Frogs’ legs
67. Beignets, churros, elephant ears or funnel cake
68. Haggis
69. Fried plantain

70. Chitterlings, or andouillette
71. Gazpacho
72. Caviar and blini
73. Louche absinthe
74. Gjetost, or brunost
75. Roadkill
76. Baijiu
77. Hostess Fruit Pie
78. Snail
79. Lapsang souchong
80. Bellini
81. Tom yum
82. Eggs Benedict
83. Pocky

84. Tasting menu at a three-Michelin-star restaurant.
85. Kobe beef
86. Hare
87. Goulash
88. Flowers
89. Horse
90. Criollo chocolate
91. Spam
92. Soft shell crab

93. Rose harissa
94. Catfish
95. Mole poblano
96. Bagel and lox
97. Lobster Thermidor
98. Polenta

99. Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee
100. Snake