Friday, June 25, 2010

Can I set a world record for Ici visits?

Maybe I will... I brought some visiting friends with me, and we rapturously enjoyed our burnt caramel, blackberry, and blueberry flavors. I plan to keep going to Ici until I hit on a day when they serve the Earl Grey flavor. Until then, I can only dream.

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Thursday, June 24, 2010

Holy land right in my backyard

This lovely looking falafel pita came from the Holy Land, a cute Israeli joint right in my neighborhood! How convenient is that? The best part of the meal, however, was the frozen lemonade with pureed mint.

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Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Schmaltz!

While prepping chicken thighs for the grill (they're in the fridge, bathing in Chiavetta's) I decided to make them skinless and trim them of as much fat as possible. That's healthy, right?

At first, I was disgusted at the amount of fat and skin I'd trimmed off (see 1st picture). But then I was inspired: schmaltz!

Schmaltz is rendered chicken fat. It's a main ingredient in chopped liver and is a good general cooking fat if you keep kosher -- you can't use lard because it's pork, and can't use butter because it's dairy. Apparently it's also tasty spread on dark rye with a little salt.


After aggressively trimming four large chicken thighs, I was left with a pile of skin and fat. Since I started with 1.3 lbs of chicken, I estimate there's maybe 0.3 lbs of fat and skin here.

This looks disgusting.


Into a pot it goes, along with 1/4 cup of water, some onion powder, and some wing tips I'd been saving for stock but would repurpose here for its fat and skin content.

The water will all boil off by the time it's done, but early on it helps distribute the heat while the fat melts.

Ideally, you'd use real onion, but I didn't have any on hand (the one half onion in the fridge had gotten dried out).


Once the wing tips gave off everything they could, they went into the trash. Now what's left is just the melted fat and the skin bits.


Any water, as well as any moisture in the skin and fat, has boiled off, and the gribenes (more on this later) are getting nice and brown. All done.

It took nearly an hour to get to this point, which is longer than I expected.


On the right is the cup of schmaltz, having passed through a coarse-ish strainer. If I had cheesecloth, I'd have used it, but I think it turned out okay anyway.

And on the left is the gribenes, the fried bits of chicken skin.


For my first try, this couldn't have gone any better. Once the gribenes cooled a few minutes, I ate them with just a little salt. Not something I'd snack on every day, but amazingly good. And, surprisingly, not that greasy. All the fat attached to the skin had melted off, and so I suppose not that much remained.

The schmaltz is cooling. After that, it'll go into the freezer. It's pure fat, so it should keep a long time, at least until I can figure out what I want to do with it.

Sunday, June 20, 2010

Burma Superstar is even better in Oakland

At the newer location in Oakland, there is so much more seating! No 3 hour lines here. The food was just as good, and they have so many options that can be made vegan. Some vegan/vegetarian friends were in town and so Burma Superstar was an optimal choice. We had the yellow bean fried tofu, which you see here, tea leaf salad (minus shrimp), rainbow salad, yummy coconut rice, and vegetarian noodles. I do really miss the Bay Area for a few reasons, and Burma Superstar is one of them!

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Friday, June 18, 2010

Ici is dangerous...

because it is within walking distance to my apartment, oh no, oh yes! This is a chicory chocolate chip scoop in a hand-rolled cone filled with chocolate. The 3/4 mile walk there burns off all the calories, right?

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Thursday, June 17, 2010

Scoping out Berkeley cafes: The Beanery

I am feeling a little house bound and need some new places to study. Today I am trying out The Beanery in Elmwood, and am really enjoying the ambiance! Classical music in the background, comfy seating, and a lot of sunlight make this very pleasant. I have heard the coffee isn't the best, but my veggie sandwich is super cute, isn't it?

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Wednesday, June 16, 2010

Sous Vide Eggs Semi Fail

Inspired by Steve and JP's sous vide setup, I thought I'd give some sous vide softboiled eggs a shot.

Here is my tale of woe.

There's a lot of good stuff to read about eggs and sous vide. Serious Eats provides a detailed description of how eggs respond to temperature, as does this guy, who does it specifically in the context of sous vide, and this site, which gives a nice breakdown of the proteins, etc. Finally, this post received a comment about a finishing technique that I try to replicate here.

So I read all this stuff, and I thought I was good to go. As I did in my comparatively successful rib smoking adventure, I reasoned that if I could get the science right, then the hardware didn't matter, and the thermos container could work nicely.

I decided at the outset that I'd cook two eggs to 145 degrees for 45 minutes. That's enough time for the temperature gradient to even out, and for semisolid whites and yolks. In fact, this guy points out that others have described the 145-degree egg as the perfect sous vide egg.

Ok, here we go.



We have this Rubbermaid cooler that we take to the beach sometimes. It's good enough for holding lunch and snacks for two cool for a whole beach day.

The eggs can go right in; the shell means they don't need a plastic seal. Since there's no vacuum, it's not really sous vide, but that's a technicality.




This pot is 3.5 quarts. I used the candy thermometer to know precisely when the water is at 145 degrees. I let it go a hair's width over 145.




Ok the water's poured in and the timer's set for 45 minutes. How do I pass the time?




I pass the time by some turkey bacon!

As a side note, turkey bacon doesn't have that much fat. So unlike regular bacon, it benefits from a quick spray of oil before cooking. This way it gets darker and firmer.





45 minutes has gone by. I scooped the eggs into this small pot of boiling water and left them for exactly 60 seconds, before depositing them in a lukewarm water bath. The idea is that 60 seconds in boiling water would further solidify the whites, but not affect the 145-degree yolks. I think of this the same way I think about giving sous vide steaks a quick sear on a very hot grill.


During that 60 seconds, I checked the temperature of the water remaining in the cooler.


125 degrees. That's not good.


Which was unexpected, because every few minutes I checked and the cooler never felt hot. The red sides and bottom remained room temperature to the touch, and the white lid felt only a little warm. So I was surprised it lost so much heat.




This is the result of egg #1. It isn't the perfect sous vide egg. It's what the professionals call "raw." Bummer.




My toast and bacon are awfully lonely.

The careful observer will notice there are three slices of bacon on this plate, but four in the pan pictured above. The observer who knows me will realize I can't sit by cooked bacon for 45 minutes without eating it.




Perhaps things are salvageable. Using the small pot, I started with new water and heated it to 150 degrees. Egg #2 is retained, and egg #3, still raw, is pressed into service.

As with the grill with the ribs, a gas stove is remarkably good at maintaining a consistent temperature. After heating the water to 150, I cut the heat to as low as possible. Every ten minutes or so, the temp reached 153 or so. I stirred in a little cold tap water to bring the temp back down to 150.

For good measure, I left them in the 150 degree bath for an hour.




These are the results. Egg #2 looks a little better than egg #3, but both actually look pretty good (#3 had some speckles, #2 did not, so I could tell them apart).

The whites are partially solid, a bit runny, and defninitely slippery. The yolks are still soft and moist and not at all crumbly. A little salt and paprika, and these eggs were not bad.

This isn't my favorite mode of preparation; I would ideally prefer a more solid white and more runny yolk, something more like a perfect poached egg (which I have consistently failed to do at home). But it's pretty similar to the "perfect sous vide egg" described before, and it wasn't even done sous vide.

I just wish I had some toast to eat them with. I ate the toast and bacon while waiting for eggs #2 and #3 to cook, and that was my last roll.


Post game analysis:

There are lots of places I could have gone wrong. I suspect i didn't use enough water at the beginning. I think I'd try it again with at least three times as much. Also, maybe the cooler leaked more heat than I thought, and that it's just not up to the task.

Potato puffs are heaven


These little bites were so amazing -- they were the kind of fried that makes you forget they were fried, as if they were never tainted by oil.  The outsides of each perfectly round ball were crisp, while the insides were creamy, salty, and piping hot.  I felt the way that Ramona Quimby did when she bit into a french fry, only these were better than any french fry could ever hope to be.  The potato puffs were accompanied by an artichoke aioli, and were consumed rapturously at a picnic table in front of the tiny and lovely Gregoire in north Berkeley's 'Gourmet Ghetto.'  There are only three counters seats inside this small restaurant, and two picnic tables outside.  Most people come here for a casual meal or take-out, and I've heard the line wraps around the block during lunch time.  At dinner it was much quieter, probably because everyone was at the Cheeseboard, which I will also visit before I leave for the summer.  I've been there before though, and while I enjoyed it, there are a million places to try.   

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

Yes this is a latte...

But why is it served in a soup bowl??? I am here at Guerilla Cafe in the Gourmet Ghetto, and while they get points for creativity, I do not like the choice of serving vessel. It's made with Blue Bottle beans, and it's good. However, I have to say, Gimme on State Street in Ithaca has an even better latte. To be completely fair to Blue Bottle though, I really must go to their actual store... however, so far Gimme is winning.

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Monday, June 14, 2010

zucchini zucchini zucchini

At the urging of my friend who said the best food comes out of the tiniest kitchen, I have decided to actually cook my dinner. This won't be fancy but I will saute these cuties with some soy sauce and a bit of onion.

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Saturday, June 12, 2010

Looking for criollo chocolate...

On the way to the Berkeley Farmer's Market today, I saw Chocolatier Blue on University.  Very interesting looking place, I think I will stop in there sometime in the next couple of weeks.  I'm booked up next weekend, but maybe if I become more efficient at the studying I'll check it out on a (gasp!) weekday.

Yes this is one taco....

I am in Noe Valley visiting some friends and their new baby today (yay) and Casa Mexicana lured me in for a quick lunch. As my one vegetarian taco was assembled my eyes grew wider and wider as it got bigger and bigger. Then I realized I had been here before 4 years ago w. S when apartment hunting. We accidentally ordered 2 burritos, one each. The body builder at the table next to us wisely cut his burrito in half and wrapped the rest to take home... then we knew we were in trouble! Delicious, delicious trouble.

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Berkeley Farmer's Market 0, Mountain View Farmer's Market 1.

It's not that I didn't like it, but the Berkeley Farmer's Market was not quite as awesome as I was expecting.  I was told there would be a lot of prepared foods, and yes, there were, but I thought there would be a little more produce!  The only real score of the day was a basket of Albion strawberries from Swanton Berry Farm.  Here's one of the berries I ate this morning:


I did buy some duck pate from the Fatted Calf stand, as well as a stick of Petit Sec aux Herbes that I munched on while walking through the market.  S is going to love these.  Perhaps later this week I will fix up a plate of the pate and sides and blog about it, but only if it is pretty :-)

The abundance of produce at the Mountain View Farmer's Market is hard to beat.  Last week was the first week of tomatoes down there, but there weren't any at the Berkeley market.  I think tomorrow I will take a quick study break (Sunday is supposed to be a workday mostly) and walk to the Berkeley Bowl.  It's about 1.3 miles, so a bit of a hike, but there's not a convenient bus and all in all it should be a nice walk.  Of course I need some tomatoes, so it will be worth it.  (I'll walk pretty far for tomatoes!!)  If I have some time this week I will try to go to the Tuesday or Thursday market, but weekdays are pretty rough with my intensive language schedule.

Oh, I guess I should mention that I had a cup of the famous Blue Bottle Coffee.  It was a warm morning (already almost 80, hot for the East Bay) so I had a cup of iced.  I've noticed that iced coffee tends to be comprised of a mix of leftovers of varieties/blends, and so perhaps it wasn't the best representation, but... I was a bit disappointed.  It was good, don't get me wrong, with nice floral notes and that smooth cold brew taste, but it didn't blow me away.  I'll have to go to a cafe that serves coffee drinks with Blue Bottle roasts and have a latte to compare it to my holy grail latte from Gimme.  Also, I need to buy a hand grinder somewhere so I can just make my own in the morning (I brought the trusty AeroPress with me this summer).  

Manpuku!

Despite the unfortunate name, Manpuku is a cute Korean owned Japanese place that serves ramen, sushi, and other delightful bites. Obviously it's no Santouka but its a great place to grab a solo dinner in the Elmwood district, which is within walking distance of my apt. My ramen was good, with a cloudy broth and nice pork belly. The noodles had a good texture. However, they sliced up small bits of raw ginger, which made for some unpleasant and surprising bites. A solid B bowl that I would have again. It was a nice way to return to my eating quest, as my hectic schedule this week had me eating yogurt and string cheese for dinner.

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Sunday, June 6, 2010

Hello, Old Friend: Revisiting the Mountain View Farmer's Market

Strolled around the Mountain View Farmer's Market with my South Bay friends... brings back old memories!  I shouldn't really say strolled, because my friends are MV Farmer's Market experts, who know which vendors they like and don't like, and have routinized their weekly shopping trip to find the best produce (my kind of folks!).  People at the Ithaca FM have given me very strange looks for my purposive, direct, fast walking, but as people whizzed by ME today in MV, I realized that my behavior was NORMAL in MV.  Ah, to be normal... 

Many of my old favorites were there, but so many new vendors as well; the market has doubled in size since I last frequented it in 2007.  Hot tomato guy was not there yet (it's a bit too early for tomatoes) but the season for sun golds is just starting...


I will eat these soon, crushed on a piece of toasted green onion slab from Acme bread and drizzled with balsamic and olive oil.  Not sure what my kitchen will be like (although I'll have an electric stove, darn), so I'm probably going to focus on simple preparations of seasonal produce this summer, which is my favorite way to "cook" anyway.  I actually first fell in love with sun golds in Ithaca... I was too obsessed with brandywine heirlooms to notice sun golds while living in California.  But sun golds are some of the best, sweetest cherry tomatoes you'll ever find, and should not be passed over!

Welcome to SF!!!!

My good friend Cupcake, Mr. Cupcake, and little Cupcake picked me up at the SFO airport yesterday, and we immediately went for a fabulous lunch at Farmer Brown's Little Skillet.  It was a place that was so SF, that I felt its "placeness," which I loved.  Little Skillet is a small venture with no seating, serving "farm fresh soul food" with limited hours and a limited menu. 



You walk up to a tiny shuttered window to order:



We shared a box of fried chicken with waffles and miscellaneous sides, and munched on the feast on a concrete loading dock in the small side street where Little Skillet was housed.


The chicken was great, everything you'd want in fried chicken... salty, crispy, juicy.  I didn't think anything else was good enough to write home about, but the chicken was definitely worth it!  As if this wasn't enough, we of course got ice cream afterwards at Bi-Rite Creamery.  No pics because I got too excited and started eating before I took a picture, but I had salted caramel and balsamic strawberry, yum!  It was a beautiful sunny day (I actually expected it to be foggy) and a nice welcome to SF.

Friday, June 4, 2010

Inching toward a good homemade Thai curry

I mentioned Mae Ploy curry pastes earlier as one of the keys to excellent homemade Thai curry.  I wanted to make at least one use of my thai basil plant before I left, so I threw together a Panang curry w/ the thai basil, the Mae Ploy paste, a Thai brand of coconut milk, and the following veggies: orange pepper, baby eggplant, green zucchini, and white onion.  Here's the first stage of making the curry, when I saute the vegetables together before adding the other ingredients (oh, these are seasoned with a bit of salt and garlic powder)...


I was lazy so I threw them all in together.  In the future I'd cook the eggplant a bit longer first, it wasn't exactly the right texture.  I may experiment with the right kind of eggplant in the future.  Normally I buy japanese eggplant for curry but they didn't have that at Wegman's when I went.  The graffiti eggplant looked enticing.  Here's the final product:


After sauteing the veg, I threw in some diced chicken (pre-cooked, again the rotisserie chicken for ease) and some leftover fresh pineapple chunks.  Wegman's was out of the Ithaca tofu when we went so I left it out this time, but it really is a necessary ingredient.  I want to try microwaving the tofu to get a drier texture though.  We missed the tofu in this round.  The Thai basil really did add essential flavor, but I wanted more from this dish.  I think I'm going to have to figure out how to add extra keffir lime flavor.  The Mae Ploy curry paste has some, but nothing beats fresh.  I think I can order keffir lime leaves online and then stick them in the freezer, but I haven't yet done it.  Well, something to look forward to in the future!

Thursday, June 3, 2010

Can't wait to go to NYC in the fall...

Not sure when, but after reading this New York Times article, I am dying to visit Greenpoint Food Market.  This opening paragraph to the article made my mouth positively water...

"THEY carry home-grown radishes and red-cooked pork. They transport dozens of empanadas, juggling sheet pans on the G train. They pack boxes of butterscotch cupcakes, Sichuan-spiced beef jerky and grapefruit marmalade. They haul boiled peanuts, ice-grinding machines, sandwich presses and at least one toaster oven painted hot pink."

I want to try everything... the list is so creative!

mini pita pockets with curried chicken and mixed greens


Sometimes great food ideas come from working within constraints.  Since I am headed to the left coast for the summer, I pared down on my food stock in the fridge.  With the miscellany left, I whipped up these mini pita pockets with curried chicken and mixed greens for lunch.  I think they'd make great party hors d'oeuvres, don't you? 

These are simple, though they take a bit of time to assemble.  Just chop up some chicken (we bought the rotisserie kind from Wegmans, this flavor is lemon pepper)... a secret I learned from Nigella is that you can use kitchen scissors to chop anything, especially when you are feeling lazy.  Add some vegan mayo.  Vegan mayo is so much better than the regular kind, because the expeller pressed vegetable oils last well, whereas regular mayo spoils quickly.  We never eat even a small jar of mayo in time (which I think is a good thing), so I only buy the vegan kind. 

Throw in a teaspoon or two of curry powder, to taste.  I prefer Penzey's Maharajah curry mix.  Stir it up, and spoon into pita pockets.  Stuff mixed greens into the sides and let overflow a bit, for color. 

Tuesday, June 1, 2010

Grilling vegetables

Today we had a vegetable grilling feast, with blue, red, and yellow fingerling potatoes, asparagus, and zucchini!

Keeping with the simple theme, these are prepared with a light coat of safflower oil, kosher flake salt, and onion powder, then grilled to doneness on our wonderful cast iron grill!  As S says, it doesn't have to be meat to be delicious!  I especially loved the zucchini today, it was positively sweet.

I have found myself to be a bit conservative when grilling vegetables.  Other than potatoes, zucchini, and asparagus, I wonder what vegetables would be good on the grill?  What immediately comes to mind are eggplants, yellow summer squash, peppers, and onions.  While I love roasted broccoli and cauliflower, what would they be like on the grill?  We will have to keep working on this experiment perhaps in the fall and next spring/summer, IF we will be in Ithaca.

Thai basil


I bought a Thai basil plant at the farmer's market, and it's really growing! Unfortunately I won't have time to cook with it too much before I head out, and I can't bring it with me :-( However, I do want to try to grow some herbs at Berkeley this summer, if I can.

I've made some progress this year in trying to make good Thai food at home, especially with my Mae Ploy curry pastes. However, it is essential to have Thai basil for authentic flavor, and so I will have to figure out how to jerry rig my Aerogarden this winter so I can keep a supply of my favorite herbs, not just the prepackaged seed packs they sell. I have 5 spaces for herbs, so hopefully I will be able to grow: Genovese basil, Thai basil, and cilantro. Competing for the two other spots will be: dill (although, like its name, it does grow like a weed which I don't like), rosemary, chives, Italian parsley.